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Rebranding Masculinity

Explore what is driving the growth of India’s male grooming market. Is the shift from fairness to self-care temporary. Find out more

BY Anjana Naskar
27th January 2025
Rebranding Masculinity

With a shift in societal perceptions and consumer aspirations, the male grooming industry in India is undergoing a drastic transformation. Earlier, the space was dominated by a few traditional players like HUL, Marico, and Reckitt. However, today, digital and social media have paved the way for many new entrants with a digital-first approach, revolutionising the category.

Once centred on fairness creams and the promise of lighter skin tones, the market is now embracing a more holistic narrative focused on confidence, individuality, and modern masculinity. A testament to this evolution is Emami’s rebranding of its iconic ‘Fair & Handsome’ to ‘Smart & Handsome,’ signalling a move away from outdated fairness ideals toward a more inclusive and empowering approach. This change is not just about rebranding; it mirrors the growing demand among Indian men for grooming solutions that go beyond skin tone to address personal care, style, and wellness.

Speaking about the objective behind the rebranding of Fair & Handsome to Smart & Handsome, Mohan Goenka, Vice Chairman & Wholetime Director, Emami Limited, explains, “A few years back, our core consumer was seeking tonal change and did not see any negative or discriminatory aspect to fairness. Our consistent consumer research in the recent past has shown us that male consumers are now looking at skin protection and nourishment, and the payoff sought is good quality, unblemished, and healthy skin. The rebranding helps to speak to our target group more effectively as, without rebranding, we would be singularly associated with tonal change and wouldn’t resonate with consumers.”

He further highlights that the male grooming market also boasts a huge opportunity: valued at INR 18000 crore today and looking to swell to nearly double its size by 2032. “The rebranding gives the brand the license to credibly enter multiple grooming categories from head to toe,” he explains.

“Smart is a smart choice, as across India smartness is seen to be attractive as a quality,” states Ashok Lalla, Independent Brand and Digital Consultant.

MOVING AWAY FROM FAIRNESS
Emami’s rebranding of Fair & Handsome is a significant step, as skincare has conventionally remained a women-focused industry. In recent years, the men’s grooming segment has witnessed exciting developments, with numerous brands entering the market with niche offerings. The narrative is gradually moving away from fairness, and established players are making strategic moves, such as Marico’s acquisition of Beardo, Emami acquiring 100% stake in The Man Company and VLCC’s acquisition of Ustraa, to tap into this growing space.

“What we observe from reading consumer culture is that for men, the locus of beauty is moving from external to internal triggers. From appearing a particular way to feeling a particular way. This is reflected in the way cleansing, hydration, and skin health are taking precedence over ‘fairness’ in conversations. There is an increased appreciation for the process & science behind looking good. Men are eager to go deeper and educate themselves about taking care of their body and their appearance,” explains Nandan Majumdar, Senior Strategy Director, DDB Mudra.

Speaking about the factors driving the shift in the men’s grooming sector, Ronita Mitra, Founder & CEO, Brand Eagle Consulting, shares that the shift is driven by evolving perceptions of masculinity, increased awareness of skin and hair care, global movements promoting inclusivity and diversity, and social media’s influence. “Key narratives driving this change include a focus on skin and hair care as wellness, personalisation, and sustainable choices. Grooming is now viewed as a form of self-expression and well-being rather than vanity. Urban consumers, particularly Gen Z and Millennials, are more knowledgeable about skincare and haircare.”

Ronita believes that consumers now value grooming as part of their overall wellness routines, of which skin and hair care are integral components. “Global trends promoting body positivity and inclusivity have impacted Indian consumers, leading to a preference for products that cater to diverse skin tones and address concerns like acne, ageing, stress and pollution. Brands should address product categories that address body care at a holistic level rather than just skin and hair care,” she adds.


ROLE OF DIGITAL
As younger, urban men redefine grooming as a key element of self-expression, brands are rethinking their communication strategies to stay relevant in this rapidly evolving market. Furthermore, Digital platforms have revolutionised India’s male grooming market, enabling D2C brands to thrive, reach niche audiences, and experiment with innovative offerings that shape industry trends.

According to Atul Hegde, Co-Founder, Rainmaker Ventures and Founder & Director, YAAP, the male grooming industry is pegged to grow at a 12% YoY to $4 billion by the end of the decade. In terms of advertising and marketing spends, the industry is still at a nascent stage but growing rapidly. A reasonable estimate would place annual spending on the category at INR 300–500 crore. He shares, “Male influencers have a big role to play here—it’s not about skincare but more about the fact that men have begun taking routines seriously. Generally, men are outcome-driven and women process-driven when it comes to grooming. The brands that focus on solid outcome-based marketing have succeeded here—The Man Company, Bombay Shaving Company, Man Matters, and Beardo, to name a few.”

“Influencer marketing has been especially successful and popularised grooming (hygiene and style) with younger audiences in the 18-22y - making it a part of pop culture and everyday conversation. What celebs were to millennials, influencers are to the younger Gen Z: with the added element of trust, relatability and a source of information. Influencer marketing has also helped build more of a community around men’s grooming and personal care. Creating a safe space for men to talk about their personal care and grooming. Bombay Shaving Company has been one of the firsts to build on this peer-to-peer sentiment well, being an ally to young Indian men with our distinctive, edgy and enabling Bros For Bros.” shares Gauri Malhotra, CMO, Bombay Shaving Company (Visage Lines).


“Digital platforms and influencer marketing have helped normalise investment in self-care and made it an integral part of daily life. They have helped consumer education on skin type understanding, male specific products and aided creation of regimens for the grooming illiterate. Unboxing, GRWM (Get Ready With Me) and other trends have created an ecosystem where consumers purchase cycle from awareness and understanding products, getting recommendations and moving swiftly to trials has condensed,” explains Goenka.

“The growth of e-commerce and the direct-to-consumer (D2C) model is driving the expansion of the men’s grooming market, introducing diverse products and new brands. D2C allows regional and niche offerings to target smaller consumer groups with differentiated positioning, some of which become mainstream,” explains Lalla while adding that acquisitions and investments by large FMCG firms highlight their success. “In the coming years, more experimentation and new launches will likely be test-marketed via the D2C route before scaling up. While influencer-created brands are thriving overseas, India has mostly seen celebrity endorsements or investments, making influencer-led brands a potential trend to watch,” he elucidates.

India’s male grooming market is at a turning point, evolving from outdated fairness narratives to embracing self-care and individuality. With the rise of D2C brands, strategic acquisitions, and a growing emphasis on community-driven marketing, the industry is poised for sustained growth, redefining how men approach grooming and personal care.

  • TAGS :
  • #Emami rebranding
  • #Ustraa
  • #Male Grooming
  • #Fair & Handsome

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