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From Runways To Gateways

As Indian retail brands step onto global runways, experts discuss if this signals at a more defined entry into global markets

BY Antora Chakraborty
Published: Apr 13, 2026 11:19 AM 
From Runways To Gateways

The global fashion circuit has served as a stage where Indian creativity found recognition through individual designers for several years. Names such as Rahul Mishra, who became the first Indian designer to showcase at Haute Couture Week in Paris, and Anamika Khanna, who presented at Paris Fashion Week in—as early as—2007, have consistently carried Indian craft to international runways. Designers like Gaurav Gupta and Bibhu Mohapatra continue to feature across Paris and New York, reinforcing India’s presence through couture and independent labels. But something is slowly changing.

It is the kind of players that are representing India. Indian apparel retail brands are beginning to occupy spaces that were once almost exclusively reserved for designers. With Raw Mango making its London Fashion Week debut in February 2026 and W for Women recently showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, a visible shift is underway. The movement signals how global runways are no longer limited to creative validation, but are increasingly being used by retail-led brands to signal scale, ambition, and market-readiness.

When asked about the insight behind this decision, Puneet Sewra, Chief Marketing Officer, Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd explains, “At W, our journey has always been rooted in reimagining Indian wear for the modern woman. After a strong showcase at New York Fashion Week last year, Paris felt like a natural and strategic next step—not only because it is considered the world’s fashion capital, but also because it represents a platform that celebrates craft, storytelling, and design innovation at a global level.”

For the brand, the move was not incidental. Sewra highlights that the decision was shaped by a growing global appreciation for contemporary Indian fashion—particularly silhouettes that balance tradition with functionality, alongside a consumer-first mindset as buyers become more global in their preferences. The Indian diaspora, he adds, continues to play a significant role in driving demand and influencing how Indian wear is perceived internationally. The showcase presented designs rooted in Indian aesthetics, aligned with global sensibilities, confidently positioning contemporary Indian wear on the global stage.

From an industry lens, this shift is being read as a recalibration of what fashion weeks represent. Vishal Prabhu, Creative Director, Strategy, White Rivers Media notes, “When a retail brand showcases at a platform like New York or Paris Fashion Week, it is not just presenting a collection. It is telling buyers, media and global consumers that it is ready to operate at an international level while still bringing a distinct Indian identity.”

Building on this, Prabhu indicates that fashion weeks are increasingly functioning as high-impact entry points into global markets, where multiple stakeholders: buyers, collaborators and media, converge in one place. He suggests that this makes them efficient platforms for brands to test international demand and establish early credibility. While visibility is an immediate outcome, the larger opportunity lies in leveraging that presence to build relationships, expand distribution, and strengthen global-positioning over time.

Amit Rangra, Senior Vice President, Shopper, Retail & Activations and Executive Business Director, VML India builds on this by shifting the focus to how these platforms compress brand-building into a single moment. He notes, “A runway appearance delivers what no advertising budget can replicate. It offers instant brand elevation, global press currency and direct access to international buyers all in one concentrated moment.” From his perspective, global fashion weeks act as high-impact brand accelerators, where visibility and credibility are established simultaneously.

Rangra further suggests that while such appearances can reposition a brand from a regional player to a global contender, the real challenge lies in converting this visibility into sustained outcomes by aligning distribution, positioning and consumer experience with the expectation that visibility creates.

Amit Arora, CIO, SHR Lifestyles, Shree, shares, “Our success in the Gulf market, where we introduced jalebiyas and abayas by adapting our signature prints into locally relevant silhouettes, demonstrates that Indian brands can seamlessly cater to international audiences while staying rooted in their design ethos.” He reiterates that global platforms play a crucial role in strengthening visibility—ensuring it translates into long-term business growth.

Early indicators suggest that this strategy is already yielding traction. According to Sewra, “The response since the showcase has been extremely encouraging, with strong engagement not only from our core audience but also from media and a younger consumer set that is increasingly curious about evolving Indian brands.” He notes that the resonance came from the versatility and wearability of the collections, elements that allow Indian wear to integrate into global wardrobes without losing its identity. More importantly, the showcase has opened up opportunities across markets, collaborations, and categories, with Paris forming part of a long-term international roadmap rather than a one-off milestone.

Taken together, these perspectives suggest that fashion weeks are no longer end goals, but strategic entry points, where visibility and credibility are established, but long-term value depends on how effectively brands translate that moment into partnerships, retail expansion and sustained global presence.

However, not all brands are approaching this shift with the same urgency. For Suta Sarees, the consideration is more measured and rooted in alignment.

As founders Sujata Biswas and Taniya Biswas put it, “We often think about how far a piece can travel, not just geographically, but emotionally. Today, someone could be wearing Suta in Mumbai, and tomorrow, someone else could discover it in another part of the world.” While they acknowledge that international fashion weeks offer access to global buyers, media, and collaborators, the brand views such platforms as one of the many possible pathways rather than a definitive next step. Their approach places equal emphasis on retaining identity, representing craftsmanship authentically, and ensuring that growth remains sustainable for their artisan ecosystem. The opportunity, therefore, is recognised but not pursued at the cost of dilution or misalignment.

Beyond brand intent and platform value, there are also structural factors that could shape how this trend evolves.

The proposed India–EU Free Trade Agreement, currently under negotiation, is one such variable. While not all global fashion capitals fall within its scope, London, for instance, sits outside the EU; markets like Paris become particularly significant in this context.

Rangra notes that trade agreements act as critical enablers of international retail expansion by lowering supply chain barriers and improving pricing competitiveness. In that context, global fashion weeks take on an added role, not just as visibility drivers, but as early-stage market-building platforms where brands can establish awareness and relationships ahead of deeper entry.
Prabhu similarly indicates that easier access to European markets would encourage brands to actively evaluate partnerships, distribution, and positioning strategies in the region. As these considerations come into play, participation in global fashion weeks becomes part of a broader, phased approach, building presence before scaling operations.
What emerges, then, is a layered evolution.

For Indian apparel brands, visibility may open doors, but long-term success will depend on how effectively brands translate that moment into sustained international presence through the right mix of market understanding, operational readiness and cultural-positioning.

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  • TAGS :
  • Gaurav Gupta
  • global expansion
  • White Rivers Media
  • Anamika Khanna
  • brand visibility
  • VML India
  • Amit Rangra
  • Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd
  • Puneet Sewra
  • Vishal Prabhu
  • Rahul Mishra

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