The Wandering Spirit
BY AMBA-SUHASINI JHALA Anchor for ‘Check out China’ on NDTV Good Times Just as a painter paints, an actor acts, a writer writes, a wanderer wanders. When you wander, you discover the world that you share with 7 billion other people. That’s seven billion different ways of life, 7 billion different food habits, mindsets, ideas, personalities, hopes, dreams, hardships and seven billion victories over seemingly insurmountable odds. And that is why travelling to Africa was such an unusual and hitherto indescribable experience for me. I cannot quantify it as it was almost a return to the beginning of time, a ‘coming home’ when really I was only a continent away from home. Standing in the middle of the Masai Mara, you are a tiny speck in the middle of this flat disc of earth and the blue sky an inverted bowl over it. It is the most humbling experience. Suddenly, you realize just how insignificant you are in the grand scheme of things. One little human in an open safari jeep in an expanse of wild nature. All your accomplishments, all your problems, all your ideals fall off you. And you stand there completely exposed, with none of your usual bravado, just you and this ancient land where you began. All 7.125 billion of you. And then you start to fill up. You fill up with just sheer gratitude for having been a part of it. For having lived on this blue burning star. Africa does that. It hijacks your spirit. When I landed in Africa, I was flying from London and my parents were flying from Mumbai; we were supposed to meet at Nairobi airport before heading to our camp at the edge of the Mara. Their flight was apparently delayed by 10 hours. I had two choices - I could wait at Nairobi airport, which had a single conveyor belt, no coffee shop or sitting area, or I could travel alone to the camp with an unknown driver who had come to pick us up. I decided to wing it. It was the most exciting drive I have ever done! There was the thrill of being in Africa for the first time but also the anxiety of being driven to an unknown location by a complete stranger in one of the wildest but most beautiful parts of the world! The drive was a six hour roller-coaster at the end of which Simon and I were great friends. We bought camping provisions, a crate of Tusker baridi (excellent chilled local beer) and even gave a ride to two little boys who were carrying home some firewood. My first night alone in a little canvas tent on the river’s edge was a memory I will take to my grave. Unfortunately, the owner, a lovely German lady who had decided Africa was far more ‘homey’ than Germany (and had moved to Kenya permanently), forgot to tell me that if you had to relieve yourself at night, it was best to just go outside the tent, the loos being about 50 meters away. I woke up, with my usual incontinent bladder (Tusker baridi to blame!) and decided to pull on my boots, whip out my trusty flashlight and foray into the night. It was a scary walk, but I made it there and back, and had wonderful rest during the night. The next morning, when I unzipped my tent to the African dawn, the other tent nearby looked trampled upon. Odd, I thought, and waved to the hippo in the river and happily brushed my teeth. Buffaloes, I was told at breakfast. One of the five most dangerous animals in Africa. And a band of hyenas had also invaded the camp during this eventful night and made off with the leftover chicken from dinner. Good thing I didn’t leave my tent, they laughed as they told me, good thing I had the sense to remain ensconced in my tent. I said nothing and sheepishly drank my coffee. That’s Africa. ‘Natural geographic’ happens in your backyard. Feedback: ambasuhasini@gmail.com
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